Words of wisdom

Words of wisdom

Saturday, June 20, 2015

MADRID & LA ALBERCA

It's been an interesting 12 days since arriving in Spain.  I think I shared with you the mix-up at the Lisbon airport and the 9-hour wait, midnight arrival, an exhausted start to the Spanish part of my trip.
Well, you'll be happy to know that everything worked out perfectly.

     

Do wish I could capture some photos of the fabulous AirBnB apartment we stayed in just off Plaza Mayor in the very center of Madrid.  Except for being on the 4th floor (in Europe that means the 5th and no lift!) it was perfect.  Alberto, the very gay owner (who's invisible wife Consuelo we not once saw) was amazing!  Not only was he standing in the rain at midnight waiting for us when we arrived, he lugged Nancy's XL suitcase up and down the stairs not once, but twice, as we returned to the same place after we finished our teaching gig in La Alberca.  

The apartment could have been an ad for Ikea.  Everything was from there, including the pillows.  The colors were lime, orange, red and yellow - and it all worked!  Floor to ceiling doors opened to a view of a small cafe,  several coffee shops, bakery plus Alberto's Curiosity Shop on the walking-only street below.  In the evening, when the late-dining and partying Madrid residents got a little too noisy, we could just turn on the air-conditioner and shut the doors.  Did you know that dinnertime in Madrid is normally 10 PM?  They are just getting warmed up and ready to have fun at midnight!  But the noise level was no where near to what we had in Lisboa - thank goodness.

      
       
Madrid Centro is filled with fabulous and very old buildings dating back to the 1400's.  Many are massive and 'gingerbread' abounds not only in the stone details but the iron-work as well.
 
      

Statues, large and small can be found towering over a plaza or sitting on a column gazing peacefully at all who pass by.

        

Museums of every size and kind are also plentiful in this city of art and music lovers.  Spaniards are passionate people and embrace the arts with great fever and love.  Of course, Madrid is the home of the magnificent Prado where Picasso reigns, along with many of the old masters.  The Sophia though is the home of his Guernica masterpiece, painted during the reign of Franco.  

      
     

       

King Phillippe has his own cute, little Palace that he doesn't even live in.  Just uses it for State occasions.  They must get enough money to keep the lights burning from all the tourists that walk through every day.

       
      
Nancy and I spent 3 days just wandering all over El Centro, getting lost and loving it.  We enjoyed eating tapis and drinking lots of roja and stumbling upon the Mercardo San Miguel - a marketplace filled with vendors, each selling their own 'small bites' and libations to tempt your tummy.  We were tempted and succumbed!

    

      
          
  
       

Last Thursday afternoon we met our fellow 'teachers' who the next day would begin the 8-day English language program near Salamaca in the small village of La Alberca.  We had a great lunch followed by a demonstration of flamneca dancing.

                                    


Twenty-two Anglos (native English speakers) volunteered for this program.  We came from the US, Canada, Australia, New Zealand, the UK, Ireland, Spain and France. The company, DIVERBO, has been running these programs for over 20 years and they are extremely successful.  They hold them in several locations in both Spain and Germany.  This week the clients are adults needing or wanting to improve their conversational English, but they also offer classes for teens and youngsters.

Our group of Spanish adults worked for large corporations or were business owners themselves.  We had several  Masters and Doctoral students, plus a few teachers.  Our group of 22 Spaniards ranged in ages from their mid-20's to a senior airline pilot who was 60.  

We all hopped on a huge coach for the 4-hour ride up to La Alberca early Friday morning.  After a short stop overlooking the historical town of Alvila for coffee and a potty-break, we arrived at our home for the next 8 days.

        

We were housed in lovely villas. There was one Anglo and one Spaniard to a villa, each with our own en suite rooms, each with a  breathtaking view of the surrounding mountains.  

     


      

Our days began at 9:00 a.m with breakfast in the dining hall.  Seating was alternating two Anglos to 2 Spaniards at each table.  Breakfast would last until 9:45, with a 15-minute break and then the really hard work began.
   
        

From 10:00 a.m. until 3:15 p.m. we talked.  We sat, we walked, but we were always talking. We had hour-long, one-to-ones with each attendee during the week.  We then had hour-long two-to-two discussion groups, entire group hour-long activities (games, presentations (both Anglos and Spaniards), round table discussion groups of 6 or 8 and finally we had lunch at 2:00 p.m.  By the 2nd day everyone was hoarse!  We all praised the courage and dedication of the Spaniards who were not allowed one word of Spanish the entire 8 days!  

We did get a siesta from 3:15 p.m. till 5:00 p.m. and yes, I took a nap most days. Then, from 5:00 p.m until 10:30 p.m. we talked some more.  Again, one-to-ones, groups of 4 or 6, total group activities, including plays and musical presentations.  Dinner was served from 9:00 until 10:30.  Did I mention that red and white wine was severed with both lunch and dinner and there never was a full bottle left on any table.  The bar opened at 10:30 and stayed open until 1:00 a.m. for those who could stay awake!  Tuesday night we had a dress-up dinner and dance that went on, for some, until 5:00 a.m.!    There were many red eyes the next day when were got to go into the village for a tour and lunch.

                                    

                                      

          

The village is famous for it's jambon and they even let a little pig roam from for several months, going from home to home and being fed and cuddled by the villagers.  You can see from the statue which has a place of honor just outside the church door, they love their pigs!

         

And they love to EAT their pigs.  Here is a photo of the inside of a jambon shop and we were all treated to a really yummy ham & local cheese & wine pre-lunch party.  The slicer of the jambon is a master.  They actually have contests on who can slice the thinnest slices in the most decorative pieces.



      

                                  

What was really interesting to me was that La Alberca is part of the Camino de Santiago.  Though hard to find, the sign of the Camino, the shell, could be found in several places throughout the village.

                                 

We returned to Madrid yesterday evening - exhausted but so proud of ourselves and our 'students', each of who's English had improved immeasurably.  They finally got to speak their own language on the bus ride back after over a 100 hours of total English immersion.

Nancy flew home to Raleigh this morning and I checked-out of the colorful apartment and moved around the corner into an extremely nice hostel.  I'm only here for one night so guess I can survive in a room with 5 other young women!  Tonight I had the great pleasure of having dinner with friend and fellow IWA member, Jill Brennan, who is in Madrid for a month-long Spanish class.  We met at the roof-top restaurant atop the Jardines du Sabitini which has a fabulous view of the Palicio Real.

      
   
Tomorrow morning I'm off once again to southern France - but this time a bit further north, near Toulouse.  One of my fellow 'teachers' has a rambling farmhouse that he generously invites travelers to stop by, do a load or two of laundry and swim in the pool in return to helping with his garden, doing some paperwork or helping around the house.  From there I will head to Germany where I will visit with dear friends just south of Frankfurt before going to Laubach where DIVERBO has one of their German locations.  I was thrilled to be asked to spend 6 more days teaching English  - to German execs! 

 The 4th of July will be spent with my friends before flying to Minnesota on the 5th for the wedding of my youngest and his beautiful bride-to-be, Melissa. 

So until next time......



       
 



 
       

   




Thursday, June 11, 2015

LISBOA & THE ALGARVE

Portugal is a country of explorers.  Their history is so intertwined with ours. Where would the United States be without Christopher Columbus or Balboa or Magellan?  King Ferdinand and Queen Isabella sent these brave men off in wooden ships to find and explore the New World.  And though they thought they were going to China, they found America instead.

                                      

This large marble statue beside the sea in Lisbon (Lisboa) is a wonderful testimony to the many who braved the unknown to discover lands far from their home.  

Lisbon is an extremely hilly city!  My friend Nancy and I decided the best way to see it was via a tuk-tuk.  



This is a very strange, 3-wheeled vehicle that seats 3, is run on gas and goes about 20 miles an hour.  We hired one for 3 hours and Marco, our driver, was really a fabulous tour guide who took us all over, stopped in places we requested and took us to others only a local would know about.  Old fashioned cable cars wind up the steep hills and are packed with locals and tourists alike. 

                                         

The plazas are huge and filled with massive statues of long-deal hero's.  Beautiful tiles decorate and cover entire buildings, marble is used everywhere - even the streets and cobblestones are made of marble - really pretty but extremely slippery - even when not wet!

                                         
                                         
                                         

We took the train and spent a whole day in Sintra - home of a Moorish stronghold, an over-the-top Pena Place and a more reasonable place all nestled in the mountains.  Though it was just early June, the tourists had arrived by the bus loads but it was well worth the trip.

         
         
         
                              A truly unique banister!

From Lisbon we journeyed via coach 3 1/2 hours south to Lagoa in the heart of what is known as The Algarve - and fell in love.  The air, the breezes, the sea, the enormous beaches that stretch for miles, the people, the food and lots of castles with loads of history!  

I found a wee, little cottage (19th century) that sits atop a cliff overlooking the sea in the tiny village of Carvoeiro that I am seriously thinking of renting for the winter.  Their beach is right in the center of town.  There's an Irish pub just down the hill, and the Atlantic stretches out forever.  Buses run between all the little towns and classes in yoga, water aerobics, pottery, painting, etc. abound, along with an active music and theater scene.  A large British population live in the Algarve year-round but I was so happy to hear that high-season is July and August and the tourists depart in the winter.  With sun almost daily and temps in the winter months averaging between 55-65 with no snow or ice ever - what more could a girl from Chicago ask for?!  Will keep you posted if it all works out.

                                 
                               
          

We returned to Lisbon to catch a flight to Madrid and had the first glitch in our travel plans.  Easy Jet bumped us off our flight and we had to book a full-fare flight  9 hours later to allow us to arrive in Madrid - at midnight! - and check into our AirBnB.  Nine hours in the Lisbon airport - not fun!  But the AirBnB owner waiting for us when we arrived and carrying Nancy heavy suitcase up 4 flights of stairs - wonderful!

More on Madrid and our fabulous little place later.

Until next time.....


   


   

Thursday, June 4, 2015

12 Days on the Canal du Midi


I just had the very great privilege of spending the past 12 days as a guest on a 110 year old river barge that is docked on the Canal due Midi outside the village of Capestang in southern France.  It was one of the most relaxing times I have had -  ever!  To fall asleep with no other noises than the gentle rocking of the boat and awaken to the sounds of birds singing and fish splashing is truly a little bit a heaven.   


For those who don't know, the Canal du Midi means the 'canal between two seas.' It is 150 miles long and was originally called the Canal Roayl en Languedoc, but the name was changed to the Canal du Midi in 1789 by the French revolutionists.

The canal connects the Garonne River to the Etange du Thau on the Mediterranean, and with the 120 mile long Canal de Garonne, forms the Canal du Deux Mers, joining the Atlantic to the Mediterranean.
It is considered on of the greatest construction works of the 17thcentury and was declared a UNESCO World Heritage Site in 1996.

Today the canal is home to barges, sail boats, houseboats and numerous pleasure rentals that motor slowly up and down the canal.  The small towns and villages that abut the Canal are great stopping points to tie up for a night, a week or years.  There is a walking/biking path running alongside the canal almost its entire length.  Bonjour is the greeting heard dozens of times each day as you wave to passing boaters, nod to runners, walkers and bikers and now an again offer band aides for blistered feet or water for a parched throat.



The people that make their homes on the boats are ex-pats from all over the world.  During the time I was visiting, I met Germans, French, Australians, New Zealanders, and many, many British.  

The pace of life they lead is slow with a trip into the market at the center of the nearby village the highlight of the day or week. Of course, one must gather several times a week at the local pub in the square for a 1/2 liter of wine to discuss the latest gossip, boat repairs being made, or EU politics.


The view of the surrounding countryside is one of 1000's of grape vines with the spires of cathedrals of a century old chateaux in the background. 

Each vineyard has its own tasting room and you bring a plastic jug (think gallon milk jug) to fill with your favorite   red, white or rose.  If I remember correctly, a jug was €9.  Cheaper - and a whole lot better - than 3 Buck Chuck from Trader Joe's.

There are walled cities built by the Romans (Carcassonne) nearby to explore and centuries-old cemetery's to wander through. 

Enormous cathedrals whose gloriously-colored stained-glass windows sparkle down on visitors and parishioners alike still stand. You can only marvel at how these edifices  were built so many hundreds of years ago without the knowledge or the modern tools of today.  
                                   


                                    

And least you think that living on a 110-year old barge is 'roughing it' just take a look at the lounge and kitchen.  There were 2 full bedrooms and 1 large bathroom with tub and shower.


 I really didn't want to leave and was thrilled to be invited back to a attend a WIC picnic the end of June.  (WIC stands for Women International Club and there are over 100 such clubs all over the world.  Being a member of International Women Associates in Chicago gives me entrĂ©e to all of them - and I have been welcomed with open arms so far in Athens and southern France.)  

I did finally have to bid adieux to canal living  on Tuesday (June 2nd) and enjoyed my first European train ride(s) from Beziers to Barcelona.  I overnighted in Barcelona at a fabulous hostel by the airport before catching a flight to Lisbon yesterday morning to meet up with my good friend Nancy, from Raleigh, NC.  We will be here for 2 more days, then down to the the Algarve for 3 days before heading to Madrid and our stint of teaching English for a week up in the mountains near Salamanca.  

So until next time...... 


Monday, May 25, 2015

Celebrating My Birthday in Venice!


       
     
On the day of my birthday, I chose to purchase a 9-hour guided walking tour of the City of Venice, which as everyone knows is made of up 188 islands and 432 bridges.  I am sure I walked every single island and crossed each and every bridge!

Of course, San Marco Square, the location of the renown St. Marks Cathedral and the Doge Palace with it's two pillars supporting the symbol of Venice, a winged lion, and Poseidon with his staff, are the main center of 'tourist Venice.'  Hundreds upon thousand of tourists from around-the-world, school groups, solo travelers, all throng to see the magnificent architecture and marvel at palaces built literally on water - with the tides rising and falling and coming right inside the front doors!!  The general consensus is that the entire place will sink within an other 100 years! - especially since their last mayor made off with over a billion euros that was designated to shoring up the crumbling intrastructure!  

I thoroughly enjoyed my visit. I stayed in a lovely little AirBnB on the mainland which was a very easy 20-minute bus ride each day into the Centre.   I took a long boat ride around the Grand Canal, ate fabulous pasta accompanied by red wine, was serenaded, flirted with, got lost - which is my favorite thing to do in a new city - and had very sore feet by the end of each day.  

Here are just a few of the wonderful sites I saw....

                                          
                                                                      Carnival Masks
   The Horses on the balcony of St. Marcs
 Statues on top of The Doge Palace
                  Just one of the magnificent ceiling in the Doge Palace
                            Gondoliers getting ready to go to work
                                                            The Riallto Bridge
                 The Bridge of Sighs leading from the Doges Palace to the prison
                                       
                                                    A Doge in his very weird hat!
        
Tourists taking photos of the Bridge of Sighs (I'm shooting this from the inside of the Bridge)

After 3 days in Venice it was time to take my first European coach ride - 16 hours to the south of France..  The bus ride was like riding with a United National delegation all speaking at the same time in different languages on their phones.  But it really was comfortable, not crowded, very reasonable, and they stopped lots of time for food and stretching and potty breaks.  Will certainly travel this way again.  I am spending the next week or so living on a 110-year-old barge on the Canal du Midi, just a bit north of the Mediterranean Sea.  The weather is perfect and boat life is so much fun! 

Until next time....
               

Sunday, May 17, 2015

Time out for reflection....


  A time to sit and reflect on what I've seen and learned after an extremely hectic couple of days seems like a good thing.  

First, I'm spending my first night in Venice, Italy.  It's 9 pm on Sunday evening here. Really I'm in Spinea, a little suburb 20 minutes from Venice proper in a beautiful AirBnB. But I got here is a long story.

First, I left beautiful Naxos on Thursday, returning to Athens for one night so I could pick up my brand new passport at the Embassy on Friday, (Only between the hours of 12Noon and 1:00PM)  

I had the very lovely treat of spending the rest of that afternoon at the home a new Greek friend, Hara G. Hara and I had chatted briefly when I was still in Chicago as we have mutual Greek friends who are members of IWA and wanted us to meet.  But both our times were so busy that all we managed was a phone conversation and the exchange of emails and phone numbers.  When I first arrived and contacted her, she once again had a packed schedule, but it turned out that my very last day in Athens she had free and she very graciously invited me to lunch at her beautiful condo in the Aghia Paraskevi neighborhood.  

How nice it was to spend several hours chatting about a wide range subjects -  the International Women's Club in Athens, children, hopes, dreams, travel - while dining on a home-cooked meal and sipping a nice white wine!  

All too soon it was time to head back to the hostel to pick up my luggage and get a cab to the bus terminal so I could hop the express bus to Paatra.  It was from Patra (2 1/2 hours from Athens) that I would board the very plush and large 'car ferry' that would carry met to Venice, Italy.  

The ship departed at 11:59 pm and reminded me of a typical cruise ship - lounges, restaurants (high end and self-serve) bars, cafes, ship stores, very nice cabins and even a disco! You have lots of choices of how to sleep on this boat.  You can actually sleep in your car - or in your camper.  You can sleep anywhere there is a chair or a couch on any of the decks - which the majority of the backpackers, high school groups and workers did.  Or you can get a cabin. 

Because it is not yet high season, I lucked out and had a 4-bed cabin (which I would have shared with 3 other women) all to myself!  Yeah - I got out my stretchable clothes line and did all my hand washing.  I had clothes drying all over the place - it looked like a photo from steerage on a 1900's immigrant crossing  

So very nice you say - well yes..and no.  I just couldn't sleep - either night.  FYI, crossing the Adriatic Sea takes 1 1/2 nights and 1 full day, arriving in Venice the next morning at 7 a.m.  It was rather bumpy and THEY LET THE PASSENGERS SMOKE IN THEIR CABINS - ARGH!  It drifted into mine and just made my stomach turn.  Smoking wasn't allowed any place else inside the ship, but all of the outdoor seating areas (did I mention there also was a pool?!) were smoking areas.

And boy do the Europeans still smoke - in restaurants, in bars, in taxis, on the street.  Being a 'recovered smoker' is worse than a non-smoker as I think we can smell smoke a mile away,  After years now of non-smoking restaurants and bars and even some non-smoking outdoor areas in the States, it's amazing how stinky cigarette smoke is.  

And one last thing that just finished off the on-board portion of the trip - I forgot to change my alarm clock to Italian time.  I gained an hour and didn't know it - so my alarm went off at 4:30 a.m.  I just couldn't figure out why I was the only person up and moving around when were going to be docking in an hour.- not!

But now comes the fun part!  I had checked and rechecked the ship's website so I knew where we were docking.  Martha, the BnB owner had sent me specific directions on how to get from the port to her place - except they changed ports!  And the new port is nowhere near the old port.

With very few English-speakers to ask for help, finally managed to take a shuttle-bus out of the port to the  RV camping site where the local buses pick you up and take you to the train station where you can catch another local bus which is suppose to take you to exactly where you are going - because you have written the stop down and shown it to the driver!  That didn't work too well.

When he told me to get off the bus - I was no where near any of the landmarks Martha had said I would find.  So I'm dragging my suitcase and backpack down the main street, asking every person I meet if they 'parla inglese' and getting no help at all.  Finally I walk to a big church where there is a little tent set up in front selling nick-nacks and food-stuff for a mission project.  I asked if either of the 2 men in the booth spoke English and I literally cried when the both said - Sure!  I showed them the address and  out came their smart phones.  They conferred and the next thing I knew, one of those gentlemen said follow me....He put my luggage in the back of his car and drove me the 2 miles back to the front door of the BnB, pointing out where I need to catch bus stop into Venice for in the morning!  

There are some very good and kind people in this world and I was so very lucky to find several today that made my little trip here just a wee bit less adventuresome.  And I didn't even tell you about trying to buy a bus ticket in the train station!  Another time.

Suffice to say, I finally arrived at the Chiocciola Venice Bed & Breakfast.  My room wasn't quite ready, but I sank down into a chair in kitchen, had my first cup of coffee of the day and spent the next hour using their very strong wi-fi signal to take care of some long, over-due emails and book myself an all-day walking tour and gondola ride for Tuesday.  Then I found a really lovely, old, old home that was turned into a lovely Italian restaurant and sat down and ordered - a pizza and a big glass of wine!  Spent the afternoon reading and napping and now I ready to call it a night.  Tomorrow Venice and lots of photos will be taken and shared in the next post!

Until next time.....